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I purchased mine as a kit, and it only came with the channels and the mast head. I’m not sure if you can purchase a T for it but I have not looked.

I went with 4”

Great! So glad it was helpful!

I couldn’t agree more. It was obviously a poor decision of the builder to use it. All the other joists I can see are okay. This one probably slipped through the cracks.

Thanks for the feedback! It was definitely learning experience but every time I sit in that room and look at that floor I’m grateful I took the time to do it. I’m sure you will as well. Best of luck.

Do you have a CRV?

I’m sorry, but I have no idea how to help you with that. You might check your fuses.

@@RighttothePointDIY It has been working until few days ago, now the display screen up is blank, not showing anything and the steering shortcut bottom stop working

I believe you can, but I would always check with local building code. Also, if you’re running waterlines through the attic, you would need to consider insulation based upon your geographic location.

Thanks for the comment. I actually talked to a couple of installers, and both had slightly different ways of doing it. However, they both were in favor of putting the hardie board over top of the lip just based upon their experience. The reality is if you waterproof correctly, it will probably be fine either way.

You are correct. The glue really doesn’t help that much. It’s just an extra bonding layer between the two joists. The only purpose of the glue and the screws was to hold that joist to the other one. All the weight of the floor is being born by the new joist itself.

Thank you Rick. I appreciate your nice comment.

So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

I did not do anything there. I just overlapped it and then screwed the backer board to the studs.

@@RighttothePointDIY so, there is a small gap between the tile and shower base?

@@jpp9846 Correct

@@RighttothePointDIY I guess if the tile is over the wall flange slightly, there isn't really any other place for water to go... Thanks!

I have had no shoulder pain this far. Happy with the results.

Thanks for the comment. You make a great observation which I briefly alluded to in the video. Basically, with all of the water proofing I did on the Hardi backer board there is literally almost no chance any moisture will get through and therefore this additional layer is just an additional insurance in the very outside chance both my sealed grout AND the water proofing seal failed. It's not likely to happen. If water does get through the grout it will just run down the water proofed backer board into shower pan. It's been about 2 1/2 years and I have absolutely no sign of any leaking and I don't expect to going forward.

@@RighttothePointDIY how can it get back out to the shower pan if the bottom tile course has been silicone sealed to stop water being drawn upward via capillary action, etc? I’m not trying to create a “gotcha” situation, by the way! I sweat these details even though I no longer do outside construction. Around my house, though, the stuff haunts me because I’m a basket case:-)

@@howardemerson457 Good question. I should have clarified. I didn’t silicone the bottom of the hardi board because it is 1/2” from the bottom of the pan and the tile goes past the hardi board another quarter inch or more. Also, when I sealed the hardi board I also sealed the bottom edge just in case there was some ‘splash up’ that somehow would reach it (highly unlikely).

I hear ya. Basically that is what I did. The old joist just held the new joist in place. Didn't cost me that much extra to screw it and glue it to the old joist. The repair is holding up great.

Good question. That pan is a delta pan and it has very stiff Styrofoam backing to it. I did this in an apartment in my basement that I use for an Airbnb and after two years it’s holding up great. I have never showered in it although I’ve stood in it. My daughter lived there for a while and she said it was great.

@@RighttothePointDIY Great thank you for the reply. I assume you mounted it into a bed of a certain mortar?

@@doug2202 No. instructions said not to. I used a construction adhesive per the directions.

Thanks! Glad you liked the video. I hope it was helpful.

Awesome! Glad it helped

Thanks buddy

For the porcelain tile I put in the shower I used Versabond thin set from Home Depot.

I have no idea. I’m not a contractor so I don’t know. Practically about 5 hours of work.

You are so welcome!

Excellent. So glad it was helpful

Glad it helped.

Thanks for the comment. Not sure about going to the abs. And you can put it in the attic.

Thanks for the kind compliment! I'm glad it was helpful.

So glad it was helpful. Good luck with your floor joist repairs.

Thanks DG. I thought about the block bracing but in the end didn't think it necessary with the other joist braced like it was. As to adding other posts, the house is over 40 years old and the only joist sagging was this broken one so I don't think it would be needed and would have really limited the use of that room (made that space into an apartment). I ended up hanging two layers of 5/8" drywall on that ceiling for sound proofing (We are renting it as an Airbnb) and there have been no cracks or movement whatsoever. We are pretty happy with the result. Thanks again for the comment!

@@RighttothePointDIY No worries. I am sure it will be "good enough." I do music and 5/8" is fine but for isolation, you do what is called an Acoustical Drop Ceiling. You can still use your 5/8" but then add a drop ceiling under it and include an air gap. A guitars top is solid wood, yet it still resonates. Sit in your car with the window closed and try to hear someone in a nearby phone booth- you won't hear a thing. Two layers of glass and a AIR mass in between you. You can also coat the materials with a treatment. You can go deep with it. In a pinch- do your 5/8" but add another 5/8' under it separated by some air. It will be much quieter.

@@UTAH100 Thanks for the info. I actually used a 1/2” layer of fiber board and then, between the 1st and 2nd layers of 5/8” I put this special sound proof caulking. It never really hardens and makes a sound deadening layer. It is pretty quiet now. Plus I put heavy blown acoustic popcorn on the ceiling. It works!

@@RighttothePointDIY It works! Padding and carpet upstairs would help as well. Besides air, mass matters. Density matters. Decoupling surfaces like ceilings and walls make a big difference. Here is a video: ruclips.net/video/pio6rNd9tAc/видео.html&ab_channel=HomeRenoVisionDIY

Absolutely! Remember, the old joist has failed and in my video I left it just because it was not doing any harm. The new joist was now carrying the weight. I just used the old joist to lock my new joist in place (meaning I didn't have to put in the joist ties to keep it upright). I know this probably goes without saying but if think you have active termites still you will obviously need to treat that first. By the way, if you were going to remove that stud, you will need to use a temporary support beam such as a piece of 4x4 along the bottom of the floor alongside the old joist that you would place the jack under to lift the floor high enough to get the new joist in. You may even need more than one jack depending upon how far the floor is sagging.

@RighttothePointDIY Thanks for your feedback. The termite damage is old and I don't see any current issues. I will use treated lumber for this project, but, I will have

The whole house treated for termites after my project is finished

Yea. The smaller shims can be reversed and it will put the handlebars up and further away from you.

Glad it was helpful.

Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad it helped!

Yes indeed! Thanks

I ran the tile over the lip and about 1/2 inch above the pan. I silicones it.

@@RighttothePointDIY thanks so much! I'm in the middle of doing one at he moment, if any luck I will have the walls fired square and plug and the pan level in a mortar bed tomorrow! I actually have some of that widow and door wrap from a door I did last year and some heavy mil plastic too.... I'm going to do the same setup! Thanks from South Carolina

@@historygradstu awesome! Good luck.

Thanks !

Make sure the car is running and the radio is turned off before you do this.

What about when car is running, radio is off, and it still only offers adjust clock?

Same here only get adjust clock when I press setup no matter what I do. Any advice?

@@BLLJH I have this same issue

Same here

Thanks you sir!

Hey buddy. Thanks for the comment. The Deck is holding up really well and we are enjoying it every day. You sure sound like you have a difficult situation there. I know it must be difficult not physically able to do the work like you used to. Time waits for nobody does it? If you’re going to be moving to long-term, you could sell the house and it would be someone else’s problem, but would hurt your house value. I don’t have any real advice to give you. I’m sure sounds like you thought it through and know what to do. I think temporary repairs to make it usable makes sense in the short term.

I did, and I put a grill over the valve for air access and future replacement

@@RighttothePointDIY OH thank you baby Jesus! - gave me flashbacks to uncovering a hidden one in a wall years ago. . .

@@carguy1312 Oh no! Yeah, I was just showing the layout primarily however, in retrospect, I should have told them what I was going to do once I put the drywall on. I have had many questions about that. LOL

You are most welcome. Good luck with your project